MaxMitch

From the sky, we see the green jungle of the Darien gap widen into the unpopulated northern provinces of Colombia. We rub our eyes, unbelieving that we are about to set foot in a land supposedly so dangerous and yet so enticing. Besides the warning on the US State Department website, we have heard nothing but outstanding travel reports from Colombia, but that doesn´t stop us from feeling slightly wary about choosing to spend time in this seldom-visited country. Due to the limited flights available, we land in the small city of Pereira - a city not in our guidebook or on any travel websites - that is set in the heart of Colombia´s coffee country. As we land, we see the backbone of the continent - the Andes - from our plane window, and our pulses quicken. Three months into our trip, and it seems like a whole new adventure is just beginning.

Our plan is to spend only one night in Pereira and then make our way north to Cartegena, before returning south to Bogota. But our plans quickly change as we become enamoured with this small city. Clean, walkable, and thoroughly modern, we find Pereira inviting and welcoming. After realizing that guerrilas or drug mafiosos aren´t lurking around every corner, we begin to enjoy the developed convenience of Pereira, almost European in its feel and services. On our second day, we meet Oscar - the de facto director of tourism for the town, who encourages us to explore the natural wonders of the countryside that surround Pereira. Unlike many of the rural areas in Colombia, the campo surrounding Pereira is safe, and the nearby Andes are filled with awesome vistas and wildlife siting opportunities. We are convinced by Oscar and others to take an unforgettable trip into the low Andes, arriving by Chiva - a open-sided colorfully painted wooden bus - at the Otun-Quimbaya national park. We hike up river beds through the tropical forest into the cloud forest, up to the beginning of the high Andean tundra - or paramo - where hardy, thick-skinned farmers have been eeking out an existence potato farming for generations. Our overnight stay is memorable, as we sight dozens of rare, colorful tropical birds and visit dramatic waterfalls.

We then travel by luxury mini-bus to Medellin, and get our first taste of road travel through the Andes. The four-hour trip turns into nine hours (two hours sitting in one spot!) as the two-lane Panamerican highway closes for some unknown reason: first one lane, then the other. We arrive in Medellín in a daze, especially as the area where our hotel is located has the look and feel of an American suburb. Our one night in Medellin turns into three as we explore the grand museums, welcoming parks, and colorful neighborhoods of this large city. Although universally known as the one-time cocaine capital of the world, Medellín is determined to move past this. This city eagerly challenges Bogata as Colombia´s capital of commerce and modernity - demonstrated by its immaculate and efficient metro system (the first we have seen of our trip) that includes a cable tram providing sweeping views of the city. The majority of Medellín´s growth came after the 60s, so the entire city feels "new and improved", with dramatic condo high-rises under construction in every nice neighborhood. Medellín is also birthplace to Colombia´s most famous artist - Fernando Botero - whose paintings and sculptures of pleasantly plump people, animals, and landscapes are seen throughout the city.

Our trip to Medellin climaxes with a night out on the town with several fellow travelers. We visit Medellín´s famous Navidad light show along the wide river that runs through town. Thousands have turned out this night to view the Christmas-themed figures and scenes made from lights dance above the river´s surface, and hundreds of merchants are on hand to sell souvenirs, gifts, and street food. We then move to Medellín´s nightlife district - the Zona Rosa - where we see the city´s young and beautiful partying hard at loud clubs and bars that would fit in any European capital city. We even meet a few of the city´s politicos, who end up buying us beers and keeping us up to the wee hours. As we leave the city, we feel like Medellín is a city on the move - bustling, exciting, and friendly. It becomes our favorite large city yet.

Best moment: Sitting around the campfire in the Colombian Andes when a dozen campesino potato farmers show up in wide-brimmed hats and thick ponchos, riding furry, sure-footed horses. They have just arrived from town at the base of the mountain, making a halfway stop on their horses before continuing another four hours to their homes on the high paramo tundra. They appear to be of pure Spanish blood - almost looking French with their rosy, wind blown cheeks and pale skin. They join us around the campfire in the cozy lodge, the only light coming from the raging fire. Before their noses are warm they pull out a guitar and a bottle of Aguardiente - the local sugarcane firewater. Songs begin - Spanish guitar accompanied by rousing lyrics dedicated to the local brew and the wind and the women. The Aguardiente is passed from farmer to farmer, making it to our corner. We take a couple tentative sips, the flavorless liquid burning our throats. By 8 pm, the alcohol is gone, the songs have been sung, and the men stumble out in the pitch-black night to their horses, confident their trusty steeds will see them safely home through the moonless night (despite their drunkenness).

Most unfortunate adventure: Colombia is serious about customs. Immediately off the plane we see what will become a regular fixture for us in the Colombian landscape: armed soldiers (and lots of them!) ready with machine guns - on every corner of seemingly every road. They are stationed all throughout the small airport in the provincial city of Pereira. Several are positioned at customs. No problem! We don´t have anything to declare, but everyone gets thoroughly searched and questioned here. Jamaica nervously laughs as we are interrogated about the purpose of our trip and stay in Colombia: "What is the purpose of your visit?" "We are viajeros, traveling through South America for several months." "What for?" asks the officer. "A conocer los paises (to get to know the countries)," Jamaica neviously responds. "Where will you be staying?" Jamaica lists off a variety of cities, "We aren´t really sure, because we don´t have an itinerary. Ha ha." The officer glares, pawing through our backpack contents. We hope this isn´t a preview of Colombian hospitality. He stares at us, as if unsure whether to drag us into the back room for further questioning. "Enjoy your stay," he balks, shoving our backpacks aside. Guess they don´t get many tourists here!

Best meal: Agua de panela and fresh requeson cheese, bought from a small farm on our trail into the Andes. Several hours into our hike to the lodge in the Andes, we pause at the only finca (farm) on our route. It is a small dairy run by one farmer and his several children, who live and work in the middle of this national park. Here we partake of the traditional hot drink "agua de panela", made from a sugar cane derivative melted into water, sometimes served with a squeeze of lemon. Known as a sweet energy drink, it is served in place of water in these parts, frequently with every meal. We have this accompanied by fresh farmer´s cheese: curds hand-formed into a round ball, crumbly, fresh, and still warm. The farmer also gives us a chunk of pure panela to try along with the cheese. It is a solid caramel-colored lump of sugar, hard as rock candy. We sit on a bench by the side of the trail, watching waterfalls tumble down cliffs in the distance and birds swoop through the dense forests that line the Andean cliffs. We take a bite of the soft cheese, nibble a bit of panela, and take a sip of the hot liquid, warming our souls and calming our feet in the midst of this challenging hike.

Favorite people: The hospitality in this part of Colombia was amazing. In Pereira, we were convinced that one night was just not enough when we wandered into the new modern public library / Casa de Cultura. The director of the center, Oscar, gave us a personal tour of the building, although it was closing, and then invited us into his office to let us know about the variety of activities in the area. He even called several tour companies to find information for us. We then encountered Daniel, who runs a small ecological tour company and worked with us to find the perfect tour of one of the local national parks. He even met us first thing in the morning to make sure we got on the right transport. Next, we met Liliana, tour guide for our hike into the Colombian Andes. Friendly and knowledgeable about the area, she was patient as we waded tentatively across rushing rivers and up slippery rocks, although she moved like a billy goat up the tough trail! At the lodge in the Andes we met Jorge, Luz, and their beautiful family, who made us feel at home in their lovely space in the middle of a mountainous paradise. In Medellín, we had a memorable and raucous time with three local politicians - Mauricio, Max, and Jorge - on our last night out. They did their darndest to convince us we should stay in the bustling city of Medellin for the rest our trip, but unfortunately our bus tickets to Bogata had already been bought, and even buying us three beers each couldn´t change that fact.

Quote of the week: (To Jamaica) ¨Your name is not unique, I have met four other Jamaicas. I have even met two guys named Yuesdolar (US dollar) and one named Yuesnavi (US Navy).¨ - crazy biologist working in the Otun-Quimbaya national park.

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